CAFEMOROCCANMOROCCANLOCALEating
Dining in Fez is something to be taken seriously. Fassi cuisine is famed across Morocco, and
there are plenty of places in the medina to choose from. Popular with tour groups and their
guides are the so-called ‘palace restaurants’ – dinner and show in lavish surroundings, usually
with plain set menus and hefty price tags. A more intimate experience can be had dining at a
riad, many of which are open to nonguests and offer excellent fare. A good range of cheaper
places can be found around Bab Bou Jeloud. The ville nouvelle has more options, including
more non-Moroccan menus.
MEDINA
If it’s just a snack you’re after, you don’t have to walk far in the medina to find someone selling
food – tiny cell-like places grilling brochettes or cooking up cauldrons of soup, sandwich shops
or just a guy with a pushcart selling peanut cookies. The top of Talaa Kebira has quite a cluster
of options, otherwise follow your nose.
Café Clock €
Offline map ( 0535 63 78 55; www.cafeclock.com; Derb el-Mergana, Talaa Kebira;mains Dh55-80; 9am-10pm; ) Even we need a break from Moroccan food every now and
then, and Café Clock remains love at first sight. In a restored townhouse, this funky place has a
refreshing menu with offerings such as falafel, grilled sandwiches, some interesting vegetarian
options, a monstrously large camel burger, and delicious cakes and tarts. Better still, the ‘Clock
Culture’ program includes calligraphy and conversation classes, a lecture program and sunset
concerts every Sunday (cover charge around Dh20), attracting a good mix of locals, expats and
tourists.
Dar Touria €€€
Offline map Google map ( 0663 03 71 02; Derb el Kateb, Zqaq Roumane; set meal Dh200)
Tucked right into the medina, this traditional house-turned-restaurant is worth hunting out. Go
for the set menu and go on a very empty stomach: feast is a better description and we’ve
rarely seen so much great food for the price. It’s close to plenty of guesthouses, and staff are
often happy to walk you home if you think you might get lost in the lanes.
Chameau Bleu €€
Offline map Google map ( 0535 63 89 91; 1 Derb Tariana; mains Dh55-130; lunch & dinner)Well-signed just off Talaa Kebira, Chameau Bleu is a converted medina house on several levels,
with tables all the way up to the roof terrace. There are tajines a plenty, although we found the
grilled meat and fish dishes to be particular winners; we’ve also had several good reports about
the standard of the pasta on offer.
Bou Jeloud Restaurants €
Offline map Google map ( Rue Serrajine; mains Dh30-70; 8am-11pm) Walking in from Bab BouJeloud to the top of Talaa Seghira, you run the gauntlet of a host of restaurants touting for
business. They’re all pretty much of muchness, offering plenty of tajines, couscous, grilled meat
and the like. They’re also great places to sit and people-watch over a mint tea, so pick one you