BHALIL
This curious village is 5km from Sefrou, and worth a visit if you have your own transport. It
contains a number of troglodyte houses (cave dwellings) built into the picturesque mountainside
and picked out in pastel hues of pink, yellow and blue. Some go so far as to utilise caves for
the primary room of the house. The result is a cool, spacious room, usually used as a salon,
while bedrooms and private areas are built above.
Meknès
POP 700,000
Of the four imperial cities, Meknès is the most modest by far – neither capital (Rabat), trendy
tourist hub (Marrakesh) or home to a famed medina (Fez). In fact, Meknès, which receives
fewer visitors than it really should, is rather overshadowed because of its proximity to Fez.
Quieter and smaller than its grand neighbour, it’s also more laid-back with less hassle, yet still
has all the winding narrow medina streets and grand buildings that it warrants as a one-time
home of the Moroccan sultanate. Sultan Moulay Ismail, the architect of Meknès’ glory days,
might be a little disgruntled at the city’s current modesty, but visitors will find much to be
enchanted by.
Encircled by the rich plains below the Middle Atlas, Meknès is blessed with a hinterland
abundant with cereals, olives, wine, citrus fruit and other agricultural products that remain the
city’s economic backbone. In the midst of this agricultural region sit the Roman ruins at Volubilis
and the hilltop tomb of Moulay Idriss, two of the country’s most significant historic sites. If you
base yourself in Meknès you’ll find plenty to keep you busy.
The valley of the (usually dry) Oued Bou Fekrane neatly divides the old medina in the west
and the French-built ville nouvelle in the east. Moulay Ismail’s tomb and imperial city are south
of the medina.