MARKETSMUSEUMTHEOLOGICAL COLLEGEIsmail’s imperial city. The narrow streets of the old mellah are in the west of the medina – look
for the old balconied houses so distinctive of the Jewish quarter.
The easiest route into the souqs is through the arch to the left of the Dar Jamaï Museum on
the north side of Place el-Hedim. Plunge in and head northwards, and you’ll quickly find yourself
amid souvenir stalls and carpet shops.
Markets
( Offline map ) There are many qissariat (covered markets). A couple of these are devoted to
textiles and carpets, which are noisily auctioned off on Sunday mornings. Okchen Market
Offline map Google map specialises in fine embroidery. On Rue Najjarine, you’ll pass stalls of
babouches (leather slippers) in multicoloured rows and Qissariat ad-Dahab Offline map
Google map , the jewellery souq. Outside of the city wall, you’ll find a colourful souq, selling
spices, herbs and nuts, and a lively flea market Offline map Google map.
Dar Jamaï Museum
Offline map Google map ( 0555 53 08 63; Place el-Hedim; admission Dh10; 9am-noon & 3-6.30pm Wed-Mon) Overlooking Place el-Hedim is Dar Jamaï, a palace built in 1882 by the
powerful Jamaï family, two of whom were viziers to Sultan Moulay al-Hassan I. When the sultan
died in 1894, the family fell afoul of court politics and lost everything, including the palace, which
was passed on to the powerful Al-Glaoui family. In 1912 the French commandeered the palace
for a military hospital.
Since 1920 the palace has housed the Administration des Beaux Arts and one of Morocco’s
best museums. Exhibits include traditional ceramics, jewellery, rugs and some fantastic textiles
and embroidery. Look out for the brocaded saddles, and some exquisite examples of Meknasi
needlework (including some extravagant gold and silver kaftans). The koubba (domed
sanctuary) upstairs is furnished as a traditional salon complete with luxurious rugs and cushions.
The museum also has a fine collection of antique carpets, representing various styles from
different regions of Morocco.
The exhibits are well constructed; explanations are in French, Arabic and sometimes English.
The museum’s Andalucian garden and courtyard are shady, peaceful spots amid overgrown
orange trees.
Medersa Bou Inania
Offline map Google map ( Rue Najjarine; admission Dh10; 9am-noon & 3-6pm) Opposite the
Grande Mosquée, the Medersa Bou Inania is typical of the exquisite interior design that
distinguishes Merenid monuments. It was completed in 1358 by Bou Inan, after whom a more
lavish medersa in Fez is also named. This medersa is a good display of the classic Moroccan
decorative styles – the zellij base, delicate stucco midriff and carved olivewood ceiling.
Students aged eight to 10 years once lived two to a cell on the ground floor, while older
students and teachers lived on the 1st floor. Anyone can climb onto the roof for views of the
green-tiled roof and minaret of the Grande Mosquée nearby, but the medersa is otherwise
closed to non-Muslims.