MAUSOLEUMheart of the town, and is the focus of the country’s largest moussem every August.
Moulay Idriss fled Mecca in the late 8th century in the face of persecution at the hands of the
recently installed Abbasid caliphate, which was based in Baghdad. Idriss settled at Volubilis,
where he converted the locals to Islam, and made himself their leader, establishing the Idrissid
dynasty.
Moulay Idriss’ holy status kept it closed to non-Muslims until the mid-20th century, and its
pious reputation continues to deter some travellers. However, the embargo on non-Muslims
staying overnight in the town has long disappeared, and local family-run guesthouses have
started to open to cater to visitors. Those who do stay are invariably charmed – it’s a pretty
and relaxed town with a centre free of carpet shops and traffic, and offers a chance to see
Morocco as Moroccans experience it.
The main road leading from the bus/grands-taxis stand to the square (Place Mohammed VI)
has a Banque Populaire ATM, and a couple of internet cafes.
Sights
Mausoleum of Moulay Idriss
Although this twin-hill town is a veritable maze of narrow lanes and dead ends, it is not hard to
find the few points of interest. The first is the Mausoleum of Moulay Idriss, the object of
veneration and the reason for the country’s greatest annual moussem in late August. An
important pilgrimage for many, including the royals, it is accompanied by fantasias, markets and
music. It’s said locally that five pilgrimages to Moulay Idriss during the moussem equals one haj
to Mecca.
From the main road (where buses and grands taxis arrive), head uphill and bear right where
the road forks. You’ll quickly find yourself on the wide square of Place Mohammed VI, lined with
cafes and cheap food stands – a great place to sit and watch the pace of life. At the top of the
square is the entrance to the mausoleum via a three-arched gateway at the top of some steps,
surrounded by shops selling religious goods to pilgrims. Not far inside there’s a barrier, beyond
which non-Muslims cannot pass. Moulay Ismail created this pilgrimage site by building the
mausoleum and moving the body of Moulay Idriss, in a successful attempt to rally the support
of the faithful.
From here, head left up into the maze of streets to find your way to a couple of vantage
points that give good panoramic views of the mausoleum, the town and the surrounding country.
Plenty of guides will offer their services – you can get an informative, entertaining tour for as
little as Dh30.
If you don’t feel like being guided, head back to the fork and take the road heading uphill,
signposted to the Municipalité. Near the top of the hill, just before the Agfa photo shop, take the
cobbled street to the right. As you climb up you’ll notice the only cylindrical minaret in
Morocco, built in 1939. At the top of the hill ask a local for the grande terrasse or petite
terrasse . These terraces provide vantage points high above the mausoleum and most of the
town.
Sleeping & Eating
Rooms are at a premium during the moussem, so book in advance. The cheap food stands
around the main square are all good for a quick snack. The grilled chicken with salad is