although the road is very narrow and twisty in parts, with plenty of blind corners from which
grands taxis can unexpectedly speed out.
The road is too quiet to hitch easily. If you don’t have a vehicle, expect to pay around Dh500
for a grand taxi for the day from Taza, although a few direct grands taxis to the Gouffre du
Friouato can sometimes be found near the medina.
The First Leg
The first stop is the Cascades de Ras el-Oued , 10km from Taza. A popular picnic site, they’re
at their grandest in the early spring, flushed with rain and snow melt – by the end of summer
the flow is just a trickle. Just above the waterfalls is the village of Ras el-Mar , where there’s a
small cafe with great mountain views. The entry to Tazzeka National Park is also near here.
With its stands of cork oak you could conceivably spend a day walking here.
Leaving the waterfalls, continue along the right fork onto the plateau and up to a small pass.
On your left you’ll see the strange depression of the Daïa Chiker , a dry lake bed. In early
spring, however, a shallow lake often forms as a result of a geological curiosity associated with
fault lines in the calciferous rock structure.
Gouffre du Friouato
Further along, 25km from Taza, the Gouffre du Friouato ( 0567 64 06 26; admission Dh3,
guide Dh100, torch Dh100; 8am-6pm) is well signposted and up a very steep road. The
cavern is the main attraction of this circuit. At over 20m wide and 230m deep, it is said to be
the deepest cavern in North Africa, and the cave system is possibly the most extensive. It was
first investigated in 1935 and access is via 520 precipitous steps (with handrails) that lead you
to the floor of the cavern (it’s quite a strenuous climb back up). At the bottom, you can squeeze
through a hole to start exploring the fascinating chambers that are found 200 more steps below.
It’s dark and dirty and eerily beautiful. The most spectacular chambers, full of extraordinary
formations, are the Salle de Lixus and the Salle de Draperies . They do indeed resemble thin
sheets of curtains, frozen and calcified. Allow at least three hours there and back.
Speleologists have explored to a depth of 300m, but they believe there are more caves another
500m below.
The admission fee allows you to enter the cavern mouth. Beyond that, a guide is needed to
go further underground to the grandest chambers. Bank on the occasional scramble, and
squeezes through narrow sections; not recommended for claustrophobes. A torch (available at
the entrance), good shoes and warm clothes are needed.
Back to Taza
Beyond the Gouffre du Friouato, the road climbs into coniferous forests past Bab Bou-Idir .
Abandoned for much of the year, in summer holidaymakers fill its camp site and tiled alpine-
style houses. This is a good base for day hikes in the area. A national park information office
opens in summer, and marked trails starting in the village.
About 8km past Bab Bou-Idir, a rough track branches off to the right 9km up to Jebel
Tazzeka (1980m). A piste goes to the summit, and it’s a tough climb. At the top is a TV relay
station, and great panoramic views out to the Rif and the Middle Atlas.
After 38km, main road joins the main Fez–Taza road at Sidi Abdallah de Rhiata. On the way