GUESTHOUSE
KASBAH
Tichka Plateau , a delightful area of highland meadows and hidden gorges. Agencies in town
offer treks; insist on travelling only with a qualified guide. Based at Chambres d’Hotes Les
Amis, recommended guide Said Dayfollah ( 0667 60 16 86;
[http://chambreslesamis.eu5.org; Sidi Belkas) organises homestays and oasis visits as well as](http://chambreslesamis.eu5.org; Sidi Belkas) organises homestays and oasis visits as well as)
walking trips. Charges are typically Dh350 per person per day, including transport and picnic
(Dh250 if you have a vehicle).
ARGAN COUNTRY
As you travel along the N10 east of Taroudannt you will see frizzy argan trees, beloved of local goats and international chefs (
Click here ), growing near the road.
In a restored 19th-century mansion on the edge of the Berber village of Ouled Berhil, some 45km northeast of Taroudannt, is
Hôtel Palais Riad Hida ( 0528 53 10 44; www.riadhida.com; s/d incl half-board Dh566/932; ) . Accommodation is in
nondescript bungalows, but it’s a special environment from the moment you cross the tiled threshold and clap eyes on the
central courtyard, with its towering palms and long pools.
Some 10km further on from Ouled Berhil, a signpost indicates the Tizi n’Test road ( Click here ), one of the most spectacular
and perilous passes in the country, leading northeast over the High Atlas to Marrakesh.
Approaching the mountains, this secondary road leads through a lush state-run argan preserve – a dream destination for
mountain goats accustomed to slim pickings in the High Atlas. Stop here to picnic in the shade among frolicking kids, or stake
out the herds for the ultimate Anti Atlas postcard shot: a goat casually balanced on treetop, munching on sun-ripe argan nuts.
Sleeping
Budget hotels on and around the two central squares offer basic accommodation and roof
terraces, good for sunbathing and people-watching.
Naturally Morocco Guest House €
Offline map Google map ( bookings 0044 1239 710814, 0528 55 16 28, 0661 23 66 27;
[http://www.naturallymorocco.co.uk; 422 Derb Afferdou; s/d incl breakfast Dh350/550; ](http://www.naturallymorocco.co.uk; 422 Derb Afferdou; s/d incl breakfast Dh350/550; ) ). If only
there were more places like this medina house, which gives a rare glimpse into Moroccan life
and won a Responsible Tourism award. Run by locals in conjunction with UK-based Naturally
Morocco, it offers delicious Moroccan meals and skilled guides. Activities include trekking,
wildlife trips, coastal excursions and craft workshops, all with an emphasis on cultural contact.
The eight-room house has a kitchen for self-catering, a roof terrace with views of the High and
Anti Atlas, informative displays in the tiled corridors, and a small library. Packages and bike hire
are available.
Hôtel Palais Salam €€
Offline map Google map ( 0528 85 25 01; [email protected]; kasbah; s/d/apt from
Dh562/674/2412; ) This former pasha’s residence, entered through the east wall of the
kasbah, lives up to its palatial name, with gardens, pools and fountains (one inhabited by
turtles) on various levels. Readers recommend the older, ground-floor rooms for their
authenticity, but the newer rooms, behind pink walls and blue shutters, are spacious and
pleasant. There’s a bar and Moroccan and international restaurants.