guides – and faux guides – in town. As ever, insist on seeing a guide’s ID card before you start
discussing possibilities. As a rule, trained mountain guides do not tout for business in the street.
Mules are less commonly used around Tafraoute than on Jebel Siroua, but you may be able to
arrange this through your guide.
Jebel L’Kest and the approaches from Tafraoute are covered by the 1:50,000 map sheets
Had Tahala and Tanalt, while the whole area is covered by 1:100,000 sheets Annzi, Tafrawt,
Foum al-Hisn and Taghjijt .
This part of the Atlas is not well developed for tourism, and transport is an issue throughout.
Camionettes (pick-up trucks) provide a reliable though infrequent service to some villages and
grands taxis run on souq days, but at other times you may need to hire one to get to trailheads.
JEBEL L’KEST
The area’s star attraction is this massive ridge that stretches away northwest of Tafraoute.
Despite the harshness of the landscape, the Berbers who live in villages such as Tagoudiche
manage to grow the mountain staples of wheat, barley, olives, figs and almonds. The village of
Tagdichte is the launching point for a day ascent of Jebel L’Kest.
AMELN VALLEY
There are some 26 villages neatly spaced out through the Ameln Valley, which runs along the
south side of Jebel L’Kest, and they make for a great walk. You’d need weeks to do a full
circuit, but a stunningly beautiful and suitably stretching five-day walk would start in Oumesnate,
take in several villages, and head up to Tagdichte for an ascent of Jebel L’Kest. Alternatively,
the ascent could be tackled as part of a gentle trek east through the valley from, say,
Tirnmatmat to Oumesnate, both just off the road. This is an enchanting area to trek.
ADRAR MQORN & AROUND
Southeast of Tafraoute the possibilities are also exciting. The scramble up Adrar Mqorn is hard
but worthwhile. Due south of its twin peaks are the palm-filled gorges of Aït Mansour and
Timguilcht , which make up Afella-Ighir oasis. There is plenty to explore.
JEBEL AKLIM
Jebel Aklim (2531m) sits in an even remoter area than Jebel L’Kest, yet is still surrounded by
Berber villages in valleys guarded by old kasbahs. From the top, there are great views over to
the High Atlas and to Jebel Siroua. It makes a great focal point for a four- or five-day walk out
of Igherm, which is roughly equidistant from Tafraoute (to the southwest), Taroudannt, Taliouine
and Tata.
Jebel Siroua
Some way south of the High Atlas, at the eastern edge of the Anti Atlas, the isolated volcanic
peak of Jebel Siroua offers unique trekking opportunities. Remote villages, tremendous gorges,
a tricky final ascent and some dramatic scenery all make this an excellent place for trekkers in
search of solitude, stark beauty and a serious walk.
The Jebel Siroua ascent is the most obvious walk, but, as ever in Morocco, lasting memories
will be found elsewhere: in the beauty of lush valleys, in the hospitality shown in Berber homes,