in the play of light on rock and the proximity of the Sahara. So if you don’t fancy the climb to the
summit, the mountain circuit still makes a wonderful trek.
Taliouine trekking agency Yallahtrek ( Click here ) and, a couple of kilometres east of town on
the main road, the affiliated Auberge Souktana are the best places to seek advice, and arrange
guides, mules and gear. The auberge has become the trailhead.
Mules, as ever, can also be hired at short notice (often the next day) at villages around the
mountain
The 1:100,000 Taliwine and 1:50,000 Sirwa maps cover the route. In winter it can be fiercely
cold here, so the best times to trek are autumn, when the saffron harvest takes place, and
spring.
If you need supplies, regional markets take place at Taliouine on Monday, Aoulouz on
Wednesday and Saturday, Askaoun on Thursday, Tazenakht on Friday, and Igli on Sunday.
ROUTES
There’s a challenging, weeklong trek that allows you to walk out of Taliouine along a gentle dirt
trail, which heads eastward up the Zagmouzen Valley to Tagmout . The route then heads
northeast through Atougha , from where it is a six-hour trek to the summit of Jebel Siroua.
Walking at a regular pace, you’ll ascend the summit on the morning of the fourth day.
After descending into the gorges for the night, you’ll pass the extraordinary cliff village of
Tizgui before reaching Tagouyamt on the fifth day. The village has limited supplies and, in
case you can’t find a room, a good place to camp in the amazing Tislit Gorge . From
Tagouyamt, the valley continues to Ihoukarn, from where you can either head south to the
Taliouine–Ouarzazate road at Tizi n’Taghatine (you’ll be able to pick up passing transport here)
or complete the circuit by walking west back to Taliouine.
An alternative circuit that is even less trekked starts at the village of Tamlakout, where there
is a classified gîte, and takes in Aït Tigga, the Assif Mdist and the foot of Jebel Siroua. It then
ascends the mountain, continues to Aziouane and exits via the Amassines. Some of the trek is
strenuous but no one day should involve more than six hours’ walking.
Taliouine and Anezale (for Tamlakout) are both on the main Taroudannt–Ouarzazate road,
regularly served by grands taxis and buses.
SOUTHERN ATLANTIC COAST
Tiznit
POP 53,600
South of the Souss Valley and at the western end of the Anti Atlas, Tiznit is an old walled
medina town surrounded by modern development. It was originally the site of a cluster of forts
that were encircled in the 19th century by some 5km of pisé wall. It quickly became a trade
centre and remains a provincial capital and centre for Berber jewellery, with a souq devoted to
the silver stuff. You’ll likely pass through en route between the Anti Atlas and Atlantic Coast; a
few hours here would be enough to check out the medina and some silver craftsmanship.