NAVIGATION
87. Luxury Washing
The concept of luxury provides three rewards,
however fleeting they may be:
- A sense of power: class-driven products or
encounters that build boundaries between us
and them - A sense of community: items and events that
allo w us to belong to a particular social group - A sense of pleasure: goods and experiences
that stimulate, indulge, and comfort
The word luxury is in danger of losing all meaning
if you believe that every company that calls itself
a luxury brand really is one. At first glance, it
seems like an abuse of the term, but the defi ni
tion of luxury is always subjective, especially as
it pertains to fashion. Since luxury is ultimately
in the eye of the beholder, many things influence
our characterization of it: standard of living, sup
ply and demand, or exceptionally distinctive.
Competing in a market saturated with claims of
luxuriousness, a designer has a great advantage
if she has a realistic understanding of where in
the spectrum of luxury her product or service
stands. This also applies to her customers. Are
they aspirational? Or is luxury a baseline stan
dard for her client? Fur, for example, is both a
coveted and controversial commodity. When and
how is it a necessity? Is it a symbol of a sump
tuous lifestyle or of an excessive one? A clear
definition of what merits the luxe label provides
a kind of protection for a designer. Her claims
are less at risk of being challenged if they are
presented in the appropriate context.
Luxe warning: The luxury trap comes in the form
of "the emperor's new clothes": blind accep
tance. The nature of the fashion business is to
intentionally perpetuate a cycle in which things
come in and out of favor, arbitrarily increasing or
decreasing the desire for them. Will the con
sumer, and in some cases the designer, defer to
the unspoken contract between the industry, the
media, and the public to agree on what luxury is
at any given time? If it is generally accepted to
be the standard, who will the leaders be, who will
follow, and who will rebel?
180 Fashion Design Essentials
Luxe costume jewelry