Fashion Design Essentials

I NVENTO RY

. 19. Building and Breaking Templates

Establishing standards provides a fashion de­

signer with reference points. Finding the middle

is important. The "average" should not be con­

sidered a death sentence to creativity, when it is

positioned as the starting point. Once specifica­

tions are in place, understood, and respected, a

designer can bend, if not break, all the rules.

The basic sloper is employed as a foundation
for flat pattern making because it contains all
the vital measurements to build a pattern that
will correspond to the body it is being designed
for. With those measurements in place, almost
any modification is possible, while still keeping
the function and fit of the garment grounded
in reality. A fitting muslin is a garment that can
be used in much the same way. This garment is
constructed so that a designer can manipu late
the design and customize the fit.

Good croquis figures are based on the propor­
tions of the human body. When the relationships
between parts of the body are maintained, the
figure can be exaggerated to extremes without
risking abstraction. The transformation may
reflect the designer's style tendencies, but the
finished product will remain recognizable.

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44 Fashion Design Essentials

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Left: Average length and

elongated croquis

Right: Va rious croquis

exaggerations designed to

accentuate overall silhouette