I NVENTO RY
20. Pattern Instruments
A sharp pencil, some paper, and a ruler-it
seems simple enough, but patternmaking de
mands that designers filter their vision of a gar
ment through a strict mathematical grid. There is
no getting away from the fact that well-executed
patterns rely heavily on geometry and are the re
sult of thinking like an engineer. Designers should
be very familiar with the purpose of each tool of
the trade and fluent in the language of whatever
units of measurement they are working in, down
to the smallest fraction.
Precise measurements and clear notations are
key when making pieces fit together. Notches,
for instance, provide the stitcher with specific
places where pieces are to be joined. They serve
as anchor points, which help to ensure proper as
sembly. Seam allowance can be looked at as the
breakdown lane of stitching lines, because they
give us room to handle the fabric while we are
sewing and provide room for alterations after the
fact-too much and you have unwanted bulk; too
little and seams begin to fall apart. Beyond taking
each flat piece and attaching it to another, these
two-dimensional pieces may also be manipulat
ed into more nuanced three-dimensional shapes.
Ta iloring a garment to the human form might
require darts that eliminate unwanted fullness,
or gathers that add it where desired.
A commercial pattern comes with a set of
instructions that take the consumer through the
most efficient way of putting a garment together.
Part of the design process for the designer
should include creating a similar algorithm for a
pattern addressing which methods of construc
tion will be used, and what the specific sequence
of steps will be.
46 Fashion Design Essentials
Above: Tracing wheel,
notcher, and awl
Right: Pattern rack
