I NVENTO RY
30. Specialty Requisites
Special materials are often required to achieve
desired effects, provide specific functionality,
and ensure quality workmanship. Solving unique
design challenges requires different materials.
If the right ingredients don't exist, an innovative
designer will be inspired to invent them.
A full-flowing skirt will benefit from a band of
horsehair braid sewn into the hem. Originally
made of actual horsehair, this mesh is now made
of nylon. One of its uses includes providing a
flexible stiffness that reinforces the edge of the
hem. The skirt might be made without it, but in
cluding it results in a rounded, billowing hemline
that seems to roll as it moves.
In weatherproof outerwear, a lack of breathability
might require the insertion of a nylon mesh into
strategically plac ed vents. Double zippers allo w
the garment to be partially opened at either end
without completely exposing the wearer to the
elements.
Thread is at the heart of putting together most
garments. Each project will require a different
type of thread. The size and weight of a thread
is indicated by a set of numbers, such as 50/3.
The first number refers to the diameter of each
strand (the higher the number the finer the
thread) and the second to the number of strands
that have been twisted together to create that
thread. Finer threads are in keeping with hand
work and delicate fabrics. Strong threads will
hold up to heavier fabrics and can be used in
situations when there will be additional stress, as
in gathering stitches and buttonholes. Synthetic
threads provide a little more give when sew-
ing knits. Embroidery thread is more commonly
referred to as floss and is usually composed of
six loosely twisted strands.
In addition to different lengths and diameters, the
shape of the point of a needle is very important.
For instance, needles used for knits need to be
slightly rounded at the point so they don't snag.
66 Fashion Design Essentials
Clockwise: Decorative yarns;
heavy-duty zipper; thread;
horsehair •
