On Food and Cooking

(Barry) #1

early-maturing spring varieties, usually with a
bright red skin, which take only a few weeks
to grow, and become harsh and woody in
summer heat. These are usually eaten raw in
salads. But there are also large Spanish and
German varieties, some with black skins and
some white, that reach several inches in
diameter and mature over several months for
harvest in the autumn. These types are firm
and dry, and take well to braising and
roasting. And there are the large, long white
Asian radishes, best known by the Japanese
term daikon, which can be more than a foot/25
cm long and weigh 6 lb/3 kg. They are
relatively mild and used both raw and cooked,
sometimes almost as a crisp pear might be.
Radish pungency is created by an enzyme
reaction that forms a volatile mustard oil (p.
321). Much of that enzyme is found in the
skin, so peeling will moderate the
pepperiness. Though most often eaten raw or
pickled, radishes can be cooked like turnips, a

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