On Food and Cooking

(Barry) #1
steam,   separate    the     foaming     and     heating
steps:
Pour cold, fresh milk into a jar, tighten
the lid, and shake it vigorously for 20
seconds or until the contents have
doubled in volume. (Or froth in a
plunger-style coffee maker, whose fine
screen produces an especially thick,
creamy foam.)
Then stabilize the foam: remove the lid,
place the jar in the microwave, and heat
on high for about 30 seconds, or until the
foam rises to the top of the jar.

In addition to its appealing texture, cream
has distinctive “fatty” aroma notes from
molecules also found in coconut and peach
(lactones). And it offers the virtue of being a
robust, forgiving ingredient. Milk contains
roughly equal weights of protein and fat,
while in cream fat outweighs protein by at
least 10 to 1. Thanks to this dilution of the

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