On Food and Cooking

(Barry) #1

into an artificial head to keep the inner leaves
in the dark and relatively mild. And popular
“Belgian endive,” also known as witloof
(“white-head”), is a double-grown, slightly
bitter version of an otherwise very bitter
chicory. The plant is grown from seed in the
spring, defoliated and dug up in the fall, and
the taproot with its nutrient reserves kept in
cold storage. The root is then either replanted
indoors and kept covered with soil and sand as
it leafs out, or else it’s grown hydroponically
in the dark. The root takes about a month to
develop a fist-sized head of white to pale
green leaves, with a delicate flavor and
crunchy yet tender texture. This delicacy is
easily lost. Exposing the heads to light in the
market will induce greening and bitterness in
the outer leaves, and the flavor becomes
harsh.


Greens  from    the Lettuce Family
Lactuca sativa: nonbitter lettuces
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