On Food and Cooking

(Barry) #1

concentrate the amino acids, sugars, and
aromas. Heat also collapses air pockets and
consolidates the texture. (The combination of
water and air loss means that mushrooms
shrink considerably when cooked.) Like
cellulose, chitin and some other cell-wall
materials are not soluble in water, so
mushrooms don’t get mushy with prolonged
cooking. The jelly and ear fungi, which are
popular in Asian cuisines, contain an unusual
amount of soluble carbohydrates, and this is
why they develop a gelatinous texture.
Many mushrooms, and especially their
gills, are rich in browning enzymes and
blacken rapidly when cut or crushed. The dark
pigments are water-soluble and can stain other
ingredients in a dish, which may or may not
be desirable.


Truffles


Truffles are the fruiting bodies of species in

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