On Food and Cooking

(Barry) #1

represents 0.03 mm). Right: Close-up of an air
bubble, showing the layer of partly coalesced
fat that has stabilized the bubble (the bar
represents 0.005 mm).
The Importance of Cold Because even mild
warmth softens the butterfat skeleton of a
cream foam, and liquid fat will collapse the
air bubbles, it’s essential to keep cream cold
while it’s whipped. It should start out at the
low end of 40–50ºF/5–10ºC, and bowl and
beaters should be chilled as well, since both
air and beating will quickly warm everything.
Ideally, the cream is “aged” in the refrigerator
for 12 hours or more before whipping.
Prolonged chilling causes some of the
butterfat to form crystalline needles that
hasten the membrane stripping and
immobilize the small portion of fat that’s
liquid even in cold cream. Cream that has
been left at room temperature and chilled just
before use leaks bubble-deflating liquid fat
from the beginning of whipping, never rises

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