On Food and Cooking

(Barry) #1

accelerated by high temperatures, so a lighter
color can be obtained by drying the grapes in
the shade. Golden raisins are made by treating
the grapes with antioxidant sulfur dioxide and
drying them mechanically at controlled
temperatures and humidities; the result is a
much fruitier, lighter flavor. Zante “currants”
are made from the small black Corinth grape,
and are tarter than ordinary raisins thanks to
their higher proportion of skin to pulp.


Verjus and Saba Two ancient grape
preparations make versatile ingredients in the
kitchen. Fruits thinned six to eight weeks
before the main harvest are crushed and
filtered to produce verjus, a tart alternative to
vinegar or lemon juice, slightly sweet, with a
delicate green aroma. And ripe grapes are
cooked down to a thick, sweet-tart, aromatic
syrup (Roman sapa, Italian saba or mosto
cotto, Turkish pekmez, Arab dibs). Like syrups
from other fruit (pomegranates), grape syrup

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