On Food and Cooking

(Barry) #1

free varieties with yellow, red, and purple
flesh.) Cross-sectional slices of kiwi are thus
very attractive. When harvested, kiwi fruits
contain a large amount of starch. During
months of storage at 32ºF/0ºC, the starch is
slowly converted to sweet sugars. Then at
room temperature they undergo a climacteric
ripening that takes about 10 days. The flesh
softens and the aroma becomes more
pronounced, with strongly fruity esters
(benzoates, butanoates) coming to dominate
more delicate, grassy alcohols and aldehydes.
Some kiwi varieties are rich in vitamin C and
in carotenoids.
Kiwi fruits present a couple of challenges
to the cook. They contain a strong protein-
digesting enzyme, actinidin, which can
damage other ingredients in a mixture and
irritate sensitive skin. Heat inactivates
enzymes, but it also muddies the fruit’s
delicate color and translucency. Kiwi fruits
also contain crystals of calcium oxalate (p.

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