On Food and Cooking

(Barry) #1

pineapple. Modern strawberry varieties, large
and red and flavorful, derive from these two
all-American ancestors. They have been given
the scientific name F. x ananassa to indicate
their hybrid origins (x) and distinctive
pineapple aroma (ananassa).


Elderberry and Barberry Elderberries and
barberries are minor fruits worth
rediscovering. Elderberries are pleasantly
aromatic fruits borne by trees of the genus
Sambucus, which are found across the
northern hemisphere. They’re usually cooked
or made into wine because they are too tart to
be enjoyed raw, and contain antinutritional
lectins (p. 259) that require heating to be
inactivated. Elderberries are rich in
anthocyanin pigments and antioxidant
phenolic compounds. So is the barberry, from
shrubby species of the northern-hemisphere
Berberis, which is something like a miniature
cranberry and dries well. Barberries are much

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