On Food and Cooking

(Barry) #1

milk solids. It can then be recooled as is, or
slowly crystallized and separated into
fractions that melt at temperatures from
80ºF/27ºC to 104ºF/40ºC, depending on the
chef’s needs.


Butter Consistency and Structure Well
made butters can have noticeably different
consistencies. In France, for example, butter
from Normandy is relatively soft and favored
for spreading and making sauces — Elizabeth
David said, “When you get melted butter with
a trout in Normandy it is difficult to believe
that it is not cream” — while butter from the
Charentes is firmer, and preferred for making
pastries. Many dairies will often produce
softer butter in the summer than they do in the
winter. The consistency of butter reflects its
microscopic structure, and this is strongly
influenced by two factors: what the cows eat,
and how the butter maker handles their milk.
Feeds rich in polyunsaturated fats, especially

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