On Food and Cooking

(Barry) #1

notes, and contain little or no safrole, a
compound that’s prominent in the tree’s roots
and bark, and that used to give root beer its
characteristic flavor until it was found to be a
likely carcinogen (see hoja santa below).


Other Common Herbs


Borage Borage is a medium-sized
Mediterranean native, Borago officinalis, with
bright blue flowers and large, fuzzy leaves
that have the distinct flavor of cucumber,
thanks to enzymes that convert its fatty acids
into the same nine-carbon chain (nonanal)
produced by cucumber enzymes. It was once a
common ingredient of mixed salads (see the
recipe on p. 251). Plants in the borage family
accumulate potentially toxic alkaloids, so
borage should be eaten in moderation.


Capers Capers are the unopened flower buds
of a Mediterranean bush, Capparis spinosa,

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