On Food and Cooking

(Barry) #1

together with citrus and sweet notes. Celery
seed was used in the ancient Mediterranean
and is still common in European and
American sausages, pickling mixes, and salad
dressings. “Celery salt” is a mixture of salt
and ground celery seeds.


Coriander Coriander (Coriandrum sativum)
has been valued and cultivated since ancient
times, more for its dried fruits than its leaves,
which have entirely different flavors. The
flavor of the fruit oil is startlingly floral and
lemony, and makes coriander unique and
irreplaceable in the cook’s arsenal of aromas.
It’s generally used in combination with other
spices, as a component of a pickling or
sausage mix, in gin and other alcohols, or as
half of the coriander-cumin backbone of many
Indian dishes. Coriander is also one of the
distinguishing flavors in American hot dogs.
There are two common types of coriander.
The European type has small fruits (1.5–3

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