On Food and Cooking

(Barry) #1

the receptors down below the temperature at
which they are activated, and the rough food
distracts the nerves with a different kind of
signal. Though capsaicin is more soluble in
alcohol and oil than it is in water, alcoholic
drinks and fatty foods appear to be no more
effective than cold or sweetened water at
relieving the burn (carbonation adds to the
irritation). If all else fails, take comfort in the
fact that capsaicin pain generally fades within
15 minutes.


Dried Chillis Dried chillis are much more
than a conveniently stable source of pungency
and thickening power: they’re the source of
flavor complexity that is rare even among
herbs and spices. The drying process
concentrates the contents of the cells in the
fruit wall, encouraging them to react with
each other and generate dried-fruit, earthy,
woody, nutty, and other aromatics. Drying
traditionally took several weeks in sun or

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