On Food and Cooking

(Barry) #1

— and rehydrated in a small amount of warm
or hot liquid before being added to a dish, in
order to extract both flavor and color. The
main pigment is water soluble, but the
inclusion of some alcohol or fat in the
extraction liquid will dissolve additional fat-
soluble carotenoids.
Saffron’s color and flavor molecules are
readily altered by light and heat, so this
valuable spice is best stored in an airtight
container in the freezer.


Sumac Sumac is the small, dried, purplered
berry of a shrubby relative (Rhus coriaria) of
the cashew and mango trees, a native of
southwest Asia. Sumac is unusual for being
very tart (from malic and other acids),
astringent (from abundant tannins, to 4% of
its weight), and aromatic, with pine, woody
and citrus notes. Sumac is ground and added
to a number of savory dishes in the Middle
East and North Africa.

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