On Food and Cooking

for infusion in water evolved slowly. There’s
evidence that by the 3rd century CE the leaves
were boiled and then dried for later use, and
that by the 8th century they were also stir-
fried before drying. These techniques would
give green or yellow-green leaves and
infusions, and mild but bitter and astringent
flavor. More strongly flavored and orange-red
teas like modern oolongs were developed
around the 17th century, probably beginning
with the accidental observation that the leaves
develop a distinctive aroma and color when
they’re allowed to wilt or are pressed before
being dried. It was around this time that China
began to trade extensively with Europe and
Russia, and the new, more complex style of
tea conquered England, where consumption
rose from 20,000 pounds in 1700 to 20 million
in1800. The strong “black” tea that’s most
familiar in the West today is a relatively
recent invention, the result of intensive
pressing; the Chinese developed it in the