fresh tea leaf tastes bitter and astringent, and
not much else. This is a reflection of the fact
that its major chemical component, even more
abundant than its structural materials, is a
host of bitter and astringent phenolic
substances whose purpose is to make the leaf
unattractive to animals. And its aromatic
molecules are locked up in nonvolatile
combinations with sugar molecules. Green tea
retains many of the qualities of the fresh leaf.
But the key to making oolong and black teas
is encouraging the leaf’s own enzymes to
transform these austere defensive materials
into very different, delightful molecules.
How Tea Enzymes Create Flavor, Color, and
Body The period of enzyme activity during
tea-making has traditionally been called
“fermentation,” but it doesn’t involve any
significant microbial activity. In tea-making,
“fermentation” means enzymatic
transformation. It occurs when the tea maker