On Food and Cooking

(Barry) #1

269). A combination of two phenolics gives a
kind of molecule (theaflavin) that’s yellow to
light copper in color, less bitter but still
astringent. Complexes of from three to ten of
the original phenolics are orange-red and less
astringent (thearubigens). Even larger
complexes are brown and not astringent at all.
The more the tea leaves are pressed, and the
longer they’re allowed to sit before the
enzymes are killed by heating, the less bitter
and astringent and the more colored they
become. In oolong teas, about half of the
small phenolics have been transformed; in
black teas, about 85%.
The red and brown phenolic complexes —
and another complex, between double-ring
molecules of caffeine and the theaflavins —
lend body to brewed tea, because they’re large
enough to obstruct each other and slow the
movement of the water.

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