On Food and Cooking

(Barry) #1

do, nearly 20 quarts/liters per person every
year.


The Industrialization of Ice Cream Once ice
cream became an industrial product, industry
redefined it. Manufacturers could freeze their
ice cream faster and colder than the handmade
version, and so could produce very fine ice
crystals. Smoothness of texture became the
hallmark of industrial ice cream, and
manufacturers accentuated it by replacing
traditional ingredients with gelatin and
concentrated milk solids. After World War II,
they dosed ice cream with greater amounts of
stabilizers to preserve its smoothness in the
new and unpredictable home freezers. And
price competition led to the increasing use of
additives, powdered milk from surplus
production, and artificial flavors and colors.
So an ice cream hierarchy developed. At the
top is traditional but relatively expensive ice
cream; at the bottom, a lower-quality but

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