On Food and Cooking

(Barry) #1

frozen with little overrun into a very rich,
dense cream. (The name simply means
“frozen,” and in Italy is applied to a
range of frozen preparations.)
Reduced-fat, low-fat, and nonfat ice
creams contain progressively less fat
than the 10% minimum specified in the
commercial American definition of ice
cream. They keep their ice crystals small
with a variety of additives, including
corn syrup, powdered milk, and
vegetable gums. “Soft-serve” ice cream
is a reduced-fat preparation whose
softness comes from being dispensed at a
relatively high temperature (20–22ºF/–
6ºC).
Kulfi, the Indian version of ice cream
that may go back to the 16th century, is
made without stirring from milk boiled
down to a fraction of its original volume,
and therefore concentrated in texture-
smoothing milk proteins and sugar. It has

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