On Food and Cooking

(Barry) #1

quart/180 gm per liter of liquid) will be
smooth when frozen quickly in kitchen ice
cream makers. A smooth but lower-fat ice
cream can be made by making a custard-style
mix with egg yolks; or by replacing some of
the cream with high protein evaporated,
condensed, or powdered milk; or replacing
some of the sugar with thickening corn syrup.
In commercial practice, most or all of the
mix ingredients are combined, then
pasteurized, a step that also helps dissolve and
hydrate the ingredients. If carried out at a high
enough temperature (above 170ºF/76ºC),
cooking can improve the body and
smoothness of the ice cream by denaturing the
whey proteins, which helps minimize the size
of the ice crystals. Mixes that include egg
yolks are always cooked until they just
thicken. Simple home mixtures of cream and
sugar can be frozen uncooked and have their
own fresh flavor.

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