On Food and Cooking

(Barry) #1

inevitable coarsening during storage is due to
repeated partial thawings and freezings, which
melt the smallest ice crystals completely and
deposit their water molecules on ever fewer,
ever larger crystals. The lower the storage
temperature, the slower this coarsening
process.
The ice cream surface suffers in two ways
during storage: its fat absorbs odors from the
rest of the freezer compartment, and can be
damaged and go rancid when dried out by the
freezer air. These problems can be prevented
simply by pressing plastic wrap directly into
the surface, being careful not to leave air
pockets.
Ideally, ice cream should be allowed to
warm up from 0ºF before being served. At 8–
10ºF/–13ºC, it doesn’t numb the tongue and
taste buds as much, and it contains more
liquid water, which softens the texture. At
22ºF/–6ºC — the typical temperature of soft-
serve ice cream — half of the water is in

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