On Food and Cooking

(Barry) #1

China or India relatively recently, around
1,000 years ago, and was brought to northern
Europe during the Middle Ages. It tolerates
poor growing conditions and matures in a
little over two months, so it has long been
valued in cold regions with short growing
seasons.
Buckwheat kernels are triangular, a sixth
to a third of an inch/4–9 mm across, with a
dark hull (pericarp). The inner seed is a mass
of starchy endosperm surrounding a small
embryo and contained in a light green-yellow
seed coat. Intact seeds with the hull removed
are called groats. Buckwheat is about 80%
starch and 14% protein, mostly salt-soluble
globulins. It contains about double the oil of
most cereals, and this limits the shelf life of
groats and flour. The hulled groats are about
0.7% phenolic compounds, some of which
give the grain its characteristic astringency.
The distinctive aroma of cooked buckwheat
has nutty, smoky, green, and slightly fishy

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