On Food and Cooking

(Barry) #1

The color and astringency of hard-to-remove
walnut skins can be lightened significantly by
a brief boiling in acidified water, which
leaches out tannins and bleaches the color of
those that remain. Tough chestnut skins are
softened by roasting or boiling in the shell, or
by a brief period in the microwave oven.
They’re also simply peeled off like the skin of
an apple.


Nut Pastes and Butters All dry and fatty nuts
can be ground in a mortar or blender into a
butter-like paste, with the oil from ruptured
cells coating and lubricating the cell
fragments and particles of intact cells. One of
the most venerable nut pastes is the Middle
Eastern tahini, made from ground sesame
seeds; it’s used with chickpeas to make
hummus, and with eggplant to make baba
ghanoush. Throughout the world, nut pastes
are added to soups and stews to contribute
flavor, richness, and body; almond soups are

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