On Food and Cooking

(Barry) #1

for hazelnuts in sauces for birds, boar, and
mullet; they’re an alternative to almonds in
Spanish picada and romesco sauces, and an
ingredient in the spicy Egyptian spread called
dukka and the Italian liqueur frangelico.
Hazelnuts remain especially popular in
Europe, where Turkey, Italy, and Spain are the
main producers. In the United States, nearly
all hazelnuts are produced in Oregon.


Coconut “Gelatin”
In addition to products from the seed itself,
the coconut palm offers several other
distinctive food materials. One of the more
unusual is nata de coco, or “coconut
gelatin,” a moist, translucent mass of
cellulose produced by a vinegar bacterium
(Acetobacter xylinum) on the surface of
fermenting coconut water. It has little
flavor of its own and a uniquely crunchy
texture. In the Philippines it’s washed of
its vinegary home, flavored, packed in
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