On Food and Cooking

(Barry) #1

produced by flour and yeast enzymes in
unbalanced amounts during intensive mixing
and high-temperature proofing.


A   Scientific  Definition  of  Bread   Quality
Raymond Calvel is an eminent figure in
the world of baking, a researcher and
teacher who made great contributions to
the understanding and improvement of
bread quality in postwar France. His
definition of high quality in good French
bread doesn’t necessarily apply in detail to
other bread styles, but it shows how much
there is to appreciate in a well-made loaf.
A good bread — a real quality loaf — ...
will have a creamy white crumb. The
proper creamy-white color of the crumb
shows that the dough oxidation during
mixing has not been excessive. It also
presages the distinctive aroma and taste
that are a subtle blend of the scent of wheat
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