On Food and Cooking

(Barry) #1

refreshed, the better the yeasts will be able to
grow, and the more leavening power the
starter will have. Starters should be
incorporated into a dough when they’re
actively growing and at their bubbliest. While
bacteria thrive at warm temperatures, 86–
96ºF/30–35ºC, yeasts in an acid environment
grow better at a cooler 68–78ºF/20–25ºC; so
both starters and rising doughs should be kept
relatively cool.
Finally, sourdoughs should be well salted.
Salt limits bacterial protein-digesting
enzymes, and tightens the vulnerable gluten.


Rye Breads Though a minor grain compared
to wheat, rye is still found in many breads in
Germany and elsewhere in northern Europe
and Scandinavia. Most rye breads baked today
are made from mixtures of rye and wheat
flours, with rye providing its distinctive, full
flavor and wheat the rising power of gluten.
Rye proteins simply don’t form an elastic

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