On Food and Cooking

(Barry) #1

shaped bread that arose in Eastern Europe, and
was introduced to the United States by
immigrants to New York in the early 20th
century.
Traditionally, the bagel had a shiny, thick,
chewy crust and a dense interior; after its
popularity grew in the late 20th century, many
bakers began to make it larger and softer.
Bagels are made with strong-gluten flour,
which is made into a very stiff dough (a
standard bread dough has 65 parts water to
100 flour; bagel dough has only 45 to 50).
Traditional bagels are made by forming the
dough, allowing it to rise somewhat (an 18-
hour retardation gives a good crumb),
immersing it in boiling water for 1.5–3
minutes on both sides to expand the interior
and develop a thick crust, and then baking it.
In the modern method, which is simpler to
automate and takes a fraction of the usual
time, the formed dough is steamed and then
baked, with no slow rise and no immersion in

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