liberally oiled pan and set in a hot oven. The
surfaces of the batter set almost immediately.
The air bubbles within the batter are trapped,
expand with the rising temperature, coalesce
into one large bubble, and the liquid batter
balloons around it and sets into a thin blister.
When cooked in a pan with many cups,
popovers rise unevenly, because the cups
around the outside heat faster than the ones in
the middle of the pan.
Griddle Cakes: Pancakes
and Crumpets
Griddle cakes are made from a more floury,
viscous batter than crêpes, popovers, and
choux pastry, and can retain gas cells for the
few minutes that it takes to cook them; so
they rise on the hot pan surface and develop
an aerated, tender structure. Pancakes may be
leavened (and flavored) with yeast, or with
whipped egg whites folded into the batter, or