On Food and Cooking

(Barry) #1
quarteron   [4  oz/125  g]  of  melted  butter. If
you only add a half quarteron of butter,
that is enough provided that you add a half
quarteron of good beef marrow crushed
very small.
Mix all this together, and when it is
well bound, one should put the waffle irons
on the fire, and make the waffles. These
waffles should be eaten while they’re hot.
— La Varenne, Le Cuisinier françois, 1651

Frying Batters


A number of foods, especially seafood,
poultry, and vegetables, are sometimes coated
with a layer of flour batter before deep-frying
(or sometimes baking). A good batter adheres
well to the food, and fries into a crust that has
a long-lasting crunchiness and that readily
breaks apart in the mouth without an oily
residue. Problematic batters fall away during
frying or produce a crust that’s greasy, chewy,

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