On Food and Cooking

(Barry) #1

smooth texture is gentleness. Heat gradually
and moderately, and stir slowly.
There is a common misconception that
crème fraîche is uniquely immune to curdling.
It’s true that while yogurt, sour cream, and
buttermilk all will curdle if they get anywhere
near the boil, crème fraîche can be boiled with
impunity. But this versatility has nothing to
do with fermentation: it’s a simple matter of
fat content. Heavy cream, at 38 to 40% fat,
has so little protein that it doesn’t form
noticeable curds (p. 29).


Cheese


Cheese is one of the great achievements of
humankind. Not any cheese in particular, but
cheese in its astonishing multiplicity, created
anew every day in the dairies of the world.
Cheese began as a simple way of
concentrating and preserving the bounty of the
milking season. Then the attentiveness and

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