On Food and Cooking

(Barry) #1

browning. During the first stage, the batter
expands to its full volume. As the batter
temperature rises, the gases in the air cells
expand, chemical leavening releases carbon
dioxide, and beginning around 140ºF/60ºC,
water vapor begins to form and expand the air
cells even further. During the second stage of
cake baking, the risen batter is set into its
permanent shape by the oven heat. Beginning
around 180ºF/80ºC, the egg proteins
coagulate, and starch granules absorb water,
swell, and gelate. The actual setting
temperature depends strongly on the
proportion of sugar, which delays both protein
coagulation and starch swelling; in a high-
ratio cake, the starch may not gelate until
close to 212ºF/100ºC. In the last stage, batter
solidification is completed, flavor-enhancing
browning reactions take place in the now-
dried surface, and the cake often shrinks
slightly, an indication that it should be taken
out of the oven. Another test of doneness is to

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