On Food and Cooking

(Barry) #1
flakes.
Laminated pastries — puff pastry,
phyllo, strudel — are constructed of
large, separate, very thin layers that
shatter in the mouth into small, delicate
shards.
Laminated breads — croissants, Danish
pastries — combine the layering of the
laminated pastries with the soft
chewiness of bread.

These varied structures and textures depend
on two key elements: the way the fat is
incorporated into the dough, and the
development of the flour gluten. Pastry
makers work fat in so that it either isolates
very small dough particles from each other,
isolates larger masses or even whole sheets of
dough from each other, or both. And pastry
cooks carefully control gluten development to
avoid making a dough that’s hard to shape and
a pastry that’s tough and chewy instead of

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