On Food and Cooking

(Barry) #1

yellow xanthophyll pigments and cause brown
discoloration, and it cross-links some of the
gluten protein and produces a firmer, less
sticky cooked noodle. However, proponents of
slow drying say that high heat also damages
flavor.


Cooking Pasta and Noodles


When pasta is cooked in water, the protein
network and starch granules absorb water and
expand, the outer protein layer is ruptured,
and the dissolving starch escapes into the
cooking water. Deeper within the noodle
there’s less water available, so the starch
granules aren’t completely disrupted: the
center of the noodle therefore stays more
intact than the surface. Cooking pasta al dente
means stopping the cooking when the center
of the noodle still remains slightly underdone
and offers some resistance to chewing; at this
point, the noodle surface is 80–90% water, the

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