On Food and Cooking

(Barry) #1

at around 2% of the noodle weight, is an
important ingredient in Asian noodles. It
tightens the gluten network and stabilizes the
starch granules, keeping them intact even as
they absorb water and swell.


Soba:   Japanese    Buckwheat   Noodles
Buckwheat noodles were made in northern
China in the 14th century, and had become
a popular food in Japan by around 1600.
It’s difficult to make noodles exclusively
with buckwheat flour because the
buckwheat proteins do not form a cohesive
gluten. Japanese soba noodles may be from
10% to 90% buckwheat, the remainder
wheat. They’re traditionally made from
freshly milled flour, which is mixed very
quickly with the water and worked until the
water is evenly absorbed and the dough
firm and smooth. Salt is omitted because it
interferes with the proteins and mucilage
that help bind the dough (p. 483). The
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