are normally colorless but become yellow in
alkaline conditions. The flavones are
especially concentrated in the bran and germ,
so less refined flours develop a deeper color.
Because they’re based on harder wheats,
southern yellow noodles have a firmer texture
than white salted noodles, and alkalinity (pH
9–11, the equivalent of old egg whites)
increases this firmness. The alkaline salts
(sodium and potassium carbonates at 0.5–1%
of noodle weight) also cause the noodles to
take longer to cook and absorb more water,
and they contribute a characteristic aroma and
taste.
Dumplings The Chinese version of filled
pasta is thin sheets of wheat-flour dough
enclosing seasoned morsels of meat, shellfish,
or vegetables. Some doughs are simply made
from flour and water, but robust pot-sticker
dough is made by boiling part of the water
before adding the flour, so that some of the