On Food and Cooking

(Barry) #1

then are drained and held at the ambient
temperature or chilled for 12–48 hours before
being air-dried. During the holding period, the
gelated starch molecules fall into a more
orderly arrangement, or retrograde (p. 458).
The smaller amylose molecules cluster
together to form junctions in the network,
crystalline regions that resist disruption even
by boiling temperatures. The dried noodles
are thus firm and strong, but the less orderly
parts of the network readily absorb hot liquid
and swell to become tender without the need
for active cooking.
Starch noodles are translucent because
they’re a uniform mixture of starch and water,
with no particles of insoluble protein or intact
starch granules to scatter light rays.


Rice Noodles and Wrappers Like starch
noodles, rice noodles are held together by
amylose, not gluten; but because they contain
protein and cell-wall particles that scatter

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