Most contained at least a half dozen herbs and
spices, as well as vinegar and/or honey, and
some form of the fermented fish sauce garum
(p. 235), which provided saltiness, savoriness,
and a distinctive aroma (much as anchovies
do today). And they were thickened in a
variety of ways: with the pounded flavorings
themselves; with pounded nuts or rice; with
pounded liver or sea urchins; with pounded
bread, pieces of pastry, and with pure wheat
starch itself; with egg yolks, both raw and
cooked. The sauce maker’s most important
tool was clearly the mortar, but the sea
urchins, eggs, and starch are early versions of
more refined thickening methods.
Harmonizing Flavors in Ancient China
The addition, intensification, and blending
of flavors that characterize good sauce
making are central to the art of cooking,
and have been considered such for at least
2,000 years. Here is an ancient Chinese