during cheesemaking, but their enzymes
survive and continue to work for months,
breaking down proteins into savory amino
acids and aromatic by-products (see box, p.
62). There are two broad groups of starters:
the moderate-temperature lactococci that are
also used to make cultured creams, and the
heat-loving lactobacilli and streptococci that
are also used to make yogurt (p. 48). Most
cheeses are acidified by the mesophilic group,
while the few that undergo a cooking step —
mozzarella, the alpine and Italian hard
cheeses — are acidified by thermophiles that
can survive and continue to contribute flavor.
Many Swiss and Italian starters are still only
semidefined mixtures of heat-loving milk
bacteria, and are made the old-fashioned way,
from the whey of the previous batch.
True “Vegetable Rennets” from Thistle
Flowers
It has been known at least since Roman