On Food and Cooking

(Barry) #1

emulsifier and stabilizer molecules in the
sauce, but not for cooked egg sauces that have
been overheated and their proteins coagulated.
The second and more reliable technique is to
start with a small amount of the continuous
phase, perhaps supplemented with an egg yolk
and its wealth of emulsifiers and stabilizers,
and carefully beat the broken sauce back into
it. If proteins in the initial sauce had
coagulated from overheating, the lumps
should be strained out before reemulsifying;
otherwise the rescue process may leave the
protein particles too small to strain out, but
large enough to leave a grainy impression in
the mouth.


Cream and Butter Sauces


Cream and butter don’t need to be made into
sauces — they themselves are sauces! In fact
they’re prototypes for sauces in general, with
their lingering, mouthfilling consistency and

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